Basic tools
Odometer or specialised tripmeter
Either can be used but a dedicated tripmeter such as a Terratrip, Brantz or Monit, to name just some of those available, will make your job a lot easier. You must have a known accurate means of measuring the distance the car has travelled and you can't assume that the odometer in the speedometer is even close. I've been caught out by going into a Touring Assembly (my first in many years) without checking the odometer which proved to read nearly 10% low even though the speed was displaying almost exactly correct.
Whichever you choose, you must take the time to calibrate it against either the North or South odometer checking locations set up for Classic Adelaide competitors (regrettably, the South Australian Government doesn't see a need to have standard surveyed five kilometre check zones marked out on major roads the way the other Governments throughout Australia have done). In the case of the vehicle odometer you may need to draw up a correction chart and convert the road book distances to the reading you expect to see on that odometer.
If you select a specialised tripmeter, get to know it's capabilities and limitations by reading the instructions, testing on casual road trips and talking to other users of the same unit. If possible fit the sensor on a non-driven wheel and consider the sensor an expendable component as it may either be damaged or you may decide to leave it with the car if you change drivers.
Map board
A good, safe board measuring 400 by 400mm. Use a piece of that plastic sign material that real estate agents love, it's light, reasonably rigid and won't take a chunk out of you if the driver really gets it wrong. Visit a 'two dollar' shop and pick up something with a plastic clip that can be pop rivetted to one edge with reinforcing washers on the back side. DON'T use bolts & nuts unless you are prepared to get button head screws and acorn nuts and then remove any excess screw projecting through. Above all, do NOT use wood or metal for the board as it, together with exposed or projecting screw thread, is a serious safety hazard.
Pencils
Several of these on hand are essential. Always use soft, dark lead 2B minimum and preferably 3B. If you opt to use 'normal' wooden pencils also include a good quality sharpener. If you prefer clutch type propelling pencils select ones with 0.9mm or larger lead as anything finer will be both much too fragile and inclined to dig holes in the paperwork before a dark enough mark is made.
Eraser
At least two of a good grade of the soft white plastic variety is best. I prefer to use only Staedler brand but if you are happy with another, stick with it. The eraser must lift the lead pencil marks cleanly without either smudging or fraying the surface of a map. You may be working on a copy of part of a map and the paper could be of a lower grade.
Highlighter pens
A few of these in varying light colours can be an advantage in pre-marking a map or for making important instructions stand out. Many people prefer to highlight certain features with fluorescent pens but it is better to have one or two sheets of clear acetate (overhead projection film) the full size of your map board, clip it on the board over the map and do the coloured marking on the acetate.
Avoid any colours such as blue that obscure the underlying information.
Rally romer
A small piece of plastic with map scales etc. printed round the edges. If you can find one with a compass rose embossed into it, snap it up as the compass rose will serve to remind you of which direction is which. When you use the matching scale for your map, place the correct numbered marks on the grid lines of the map and the corner of the romer shows the location the map reference relates to. This is an essential tool for quickly and accurately plotting of 6 and 8 figure map references. If your romer has a hole in it, loop a piece of string through it and hang it round your neck or attach it to an easy-to-reach part of the interior so you don't lose it under the seat.
Watch or other timepiece
A watch which shows seconds on the main display is necessary - this type costs very little from a 'two dollar' shop, but make sure it's reliable! You should have at least two time pieces in the car set to rally time, as a backup - set the driver's watch and/or car clock too.
A digital watch is probably best but I will admit that I have always used a Seiko Navigator 24 hour analog watch with a backup. If you opt for digital, ensure you have at least one analog watch in the car as sometimes 'clock' directions are used as part of a clue and without the analog watch it is more difficult to solve.
Ruler
A clean, clear acrylic 40cm long one with highly visible metric markings is the most basic tool you can use. Occasionally you will need this to resolve a location on the map, although this is apparently not something often used by Australian organisers.
Lighting
The importance of this cannot be overstated!
A small gooseneck map light with on/off switch positioned so that it can remain on while the car is moving without distracting reflections on the windshield or glare visible to the driver is your primary light source.
The car's interior lights are not suitable while driving as they are too bright but you can turn them on when stopped to solve a difficult clue.
A reasonable supplement to a traditional map light is a hand held fluorescent light - the advantage of this is that it gives off a more natural white light which makes it easier to distinguish lighter colours on the map. It can also be used as a work light for running repairs to the car!
All your lighting can be equipped with high intensity white LEDs which have the advantages of very directional clean white light and low power demand.
A switched bright white LED light mounted so that it illuminates a road card on a clip board when positioned on the car door with the window down is usually appreciated by control officials as it can save them time and effort (and being in favour with control officials is always a good thing).
Clear acetate film
Some smaller pieces of this together with a couple of good quality black permanent markers in the finest tip available will deal with 'map traces' and 'postage stamps' nicely. You can trace the image from the road book or instructions and then hunt for it on the map either true image or mirrored. Do NOT use non-permanent markers, they will smudge on acetate.
Clip boards
At least one and preferably two A4 size, one for the road card and another for the road book. Best if distinctly different colours, plastic covered with cardboard inner stiffening (i.e. the cheap Chinese type). A good alternative are the cheap translucent stiff plastic document wallets.
